Je suis \u00e0 Amman, en Jordanie, depuis presque deux mois. Comme je ne travaille pas encore, je profite de mon temps libre pour am\u00e9liorer mon arabe. Cela implique de passer du temps \u00e0 converser avec mon prochain. Je me familiarise avec le quartier, la ville et j\u2019apprends \u00e0 conna\u00eetre mes voisins. Dans cette capitale qui semble parfois si impersonnelle, de nombreuses cultures se croisent et s\u2019entrem\u00ealent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
La ville est immense, construite au d\u00e9part sur sept collines diff\u00e9rentes, elle en couvre maintenant plus de 19. Elle a port\u00e9 plusieurs noms selon les \u00e9poques: Rabath Ammon, Philadelphie, Amman. Capitale d\u00e9routante, elle n\u2019est ni belle ni moche, ni accueillante, ni repoussante. Les klaxons l\u2019animent durant la journ\u00e9e – comme de nuit d\u2019ailleurs! Il peut \u00eatre dangereux de se d\u00e9placer \u00e0 pieds, le respect du code de la route \u00e9tant plut\u00f4t approximatif. Toutefois, malgr\u00e9 ce fourmillement de voitures qui rend les ballades risqu\u00e9es, Amman fait figure d\u2019exception au Moyen-Orient. C\u2019est une oasis de paix pour les nombreux ressortissants de pays en guerre venus s\u2019y r\u00e9fugier. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Les diff\u00e9rences sociales et culturelles sont tellement importantes d\u2019un quartier \u00e0 l\u2019autre comme d\u2019une partie de la ville \u00e0 l\u2019autre! Il est parfois difficile pour une nouvelle-venue, de savoir comment se comporter et comment se v\u00eatir de mani\u00e8re ad\u00e9quate. Dans le \u00ab Balad \u00bb, quartier populaire, il vaut mieux \u00eatre couverte et modestement v\u00eatue. A l\u2019inverse, dans les malls d\u2019Amman-ouest, on se croirait plut\u00f4t en Occident. On peut alors porter des tenues tendance \u00e0 l\u2019image des enseignes qui les remplissent: Zara, H&M, Mango, Pull & Bear ou Bershka. Il faut apprendre, dans cette ville cosmopolite, \u00e0 \u00eatre flexible, \u00e0 se laisser surprendre, \u00e0 se laisser aborder \u00e9galement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
J\u2019aime la curiosit\u00e9 des gens et leurs questions directes. Comme j\u2019aime \u00e9changer et rire, les conversations sont souvent tr\u00e8s sympathiques. On me demande syst\u00e9matiquement d\u2019o\u00f9 je viens, ce que je fais \u00e0 Amman, si je suis mari\u00e9e, si j\u2019ai des enfants. Mon arabe approximatif me permet de r\u00e9pondre \u00e0 ces questions et c\u2019est avec plaisir que je me pr\u00eate au jeu. Je questionne \u00e0 mon tour mes interlocuteurs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u00a0Comme ma maman, n\u00e9e au Liban, est d\u2019origine palestinienne, cela cr\u00e9e rapidement un pont entre les autres et moi. En effet, plus de 70% de la population \u00e0 Amman est d\u2019origine palestinienne. Je rencontre des gens de J\u00e9rusalem, Tulkarem, J\u00e9nine, ou Ramallah. Presque chaque conversation me permet de voyager un peu en Palestine. Cela me rapproche alors du destin de mes interlocuteurs, puisque nos familles sont commun\u00e9ment victimes de la Nakba. D\u00e8s ce moment, la conversation prend un ton plus personnel; On m\u2019appelle soeur, cousine et je me sens alors moins \u00e9trang\u00e8re dans cette ville immense. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ton identit\u00e9 rachet\u00e9e d\u00e9finit ta libert\u00e9. {\u2026} Ta libert\u00e9 trouve son expression la plus compl\u00e8te en \u00e9tant au service de l\u2019autre dans l\u2019amour. Valorise ton prochain comme \u00e9gal \u00e0 toi-m\u00eame.<\/p>Traduction libre de la \u00ab Mirror Bible \u00bb, Galates 5.13-14<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Je suis \u00e0 Amman, en Jordanie, depuis presque deux mois. Comme je ne travaille pas encore, je profite de mon temps libre pour am\u00e9liorer mon … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":245,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[63,65,66],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-196","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-temoignage","category-vie-quotidienne","category-voyage"],"yoast_head":"\n
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